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Cosme, New York

We have been to Cosme three times now and each time I leave I find myself lost in thought, mulling over one dish or another, trying to digest the alien assault of new flavours and ingredients on my senses.

It is rare that a menu reads like a mystery, or that a dish renders me clueless as to its ingredients or preparation. The fact that this is always the case at Cosme means that to me its secrets are as tantalising as a sidelong wink from an attractive man.

They opened for brunch on Sundays three weeks ago, so I was able to book a table as word hasn't quite got out yet.

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Bloody Maria - light, herby and smoky, with a chilli crusted jicama stirrer.

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Watermelon and mezcal.

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Pineapple, cinnamon and rum.

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Little cubes of crisp nopal cactus that tasted like aloe, with a citrus acidity, dressed in a herb pesto and paired with green leaves, baby tomatillos, sharp sorrel sprouts and a rich white ayocote bean purée, or Mexican hummous, as my husband described it.

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Blue corn quesadilla with a squeaky white cheese and epazote herb filling.

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Sliced raw razor clams in their shells, dressed with celery leaves, carrot, avocado and Mexican lime.

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Arctic char tostado with creamy avocado, crystalline heat from translucent slices of green jalapeno, chervil and briny trout roe.

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Lobster and tortilla broth with chunks of sweet lobster, sour cream, crunchy blue tortilla strips and chewy deep fried chochoyotas - tortilla balls.

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Duck enmoladas with chichilo mole made from pasilla and another, apparently very expensive chilli I didn't catch the name of (chilwaquele?).

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Kale tamal, wrapped in banana leaf and topped with spring onion laced ricotta.

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Lime, ginger, mezcal and dragonfruit sorbet

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Raicilla - also know as mezcal depending on where in Mexico it was made. This particularly phenomenal one was smoky, sweet and salty at the same time.

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Cosme

35 E 21st Street

New York, NY 10010

Tel: 212 913-9659

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